U.P., Up, & Away!

We’d never been to the Upper Peninsula (U.P.) of Michigan before, and July seemed like a good time to travel north. So, we hit the road. We thought maybe it’d be cooler than the heat wave at home. But not so much. Add in smokey air from the Canadian wildfires and it wasn’t that different from the weather back in New England.

We left home on a Sunday and headed north through Vermont. After an early dinner at Burlington Beer Company, we checked in with the host of our Harvest Hosts site at Tanneberger Veterinary Hospital in St. Albans, Vermont. We parked overnight up the hill in back of the hospital.

On Monday morning, after the first of many visits to the closest Walmart, we pulled up at the Missisquoi Valley Rail Trail for a bike ride. It took a little sleuthing to find the parking area. Apparently you have to drive up the trail itself to find parking. Anyway, it was a nice quiet ride.

After the ride, on the recommendation of our previous night’s host, Mark stopped in at Trailside Bakery for some local dairy chocolate milk, a squash pastry, and a molasses-ginger cookie. All happily consumed. 🙂

Before lunch, we crossed the midpoint between the equator and the north pole. Then the Canadian border. After lunch, we visited the Ecomuseum Zoo just west of Montreal. A cramped little zoo on a very hot day. Hopefully, our admission fee will help pay for some upgrades. The best sighting there was possibly a Green Heron (no photo) perched free in the trees above the Gyrfalcons’ cage.

We arrived at our KOA (Kampgrounds of America) campsite in Horton, Ontario, in time for dinner.

In the morning, as we headed toward Parry Sound, Ontario, we entered Algonquin Provincial Park. At the Welcome Center we discovered a beautiful totem pole carved by Algonquin Elder Dan Bowers more than ten years ago.

A little farther down the road, we stopped at Spruce Bog Boardwalk. Mark ran and I walked the boardwalk loop. From that parking lot, we followed a path leading to a second trail. The Lookout Trail led up to a cliff with an expansive view of the surrounding area. I was very happy to catch a glimpse of a Golden-crowned Kinglet that morning.

By late afternoon, we arrived at our next KOA site in Seguin, Ontario, just outside of Parry Sound, the birthplace of Bobby Orr. A visit to his Hall of Fame was on our shortlist.

Smokey skies gave everything an eerie yellow glow the next day. But that didn’t put a damper on our plans in Parry Sound. We walked/ran along a waterfront trail while we waited for the Hall of Fame to open. One section was lined with colorful painted rocks, so I added our Birthday Rocks for a photo op.

Mark went farther down the path than I walked and enjoyed a surprise sighting of a deer and fawn. Meanwhile, on a side trail, I had a close encounter with a fox and had to clap my hands and yell to scare it away.

The Hall of Fame was worth the wait — lots of memorabilia and a hanging model of the flying Bobby Orr from the Stanley Cup Final goal in 1970.

Then we crossed over the river and had lunch at Trestle Brewing.

We left Parry Sound after lunch and headed northwest. The air was fairly smokey, but we found Fielding Memorial Park and Bird Sanctuary in Greater Sudbury, Ontario, and decided to stop. It was late afternoon, but we encountered several interesting creatures. A pair of pigeons that wanted to make friends with us, a chipmunk that probably would’ve climbed up my leg if I let it, a Black-crowned Night Heron with its back to us, fishing, many Mallards, and a Great Blue Heron in the distance. Not to mention a beautiful bug or two.

We went back to Fielding the next morning after a stay at Holiday Beach Campground in Whitefish, Ontario. The campground was not nearly as fancy as the name implies, but the owner had a good long story to tell us about the flooding that nearly wiped them out and the slow recovery efforts they’ve been making. At Fielding, we saw some of the same creatures again, plus a young American Redstart, a Cedar Waxwing, and a red squirrel.

That afternoon, we crossed back into the U.S.and learned something new in the process. There were only two lanes open at the border and we chose what ended up being the slower of the two lines, of course. When it was our turn, we learned what was slowing things down. Did you know that if you bring oranges and avocados from the U.S. into Canada, you can’t bring them back into the U.S.? We didn’t. There’s a whole list of foods you can’t bring over the border and this particular agent was determined to do her job. After throwing out some perfectly good food, we arrived back in the U.S. at Sault Ste. Marie, Michigan.

The second place on our shortlist for this trip was Mackinac Island. So we pulled into our KOA site in St. Ignace, Michigan, that evening and settled in for a two-night stay. In the morning, we left before six a.m. to claim a parking spot at Shepler’s Mackinac Island Ferry lot. We took our bikes and caught the 7:30 a.m. ferry to the island. No motorized vehicles are allowed on the island. Only bikes and horse-drawn carriages and carts.

We spent the morning riding the 8.2 mile perimeter of the island. We stopped for birds , an overlook arch, historical markers, and a nature trail or two. A very nice ride! And the first time I’d seen, or at least identified, a Common Merganser duck.

We parked our bikes back where we’d started and then walked the downtown area, browsing the shops. One gallery had a collection of lovely painted rocks for sale. (Another photo op for our Birthday Rocks.) Lunch at Great Turtle Brewery & Distillery was very good and then, after a little more shopping and checking out the Fort Mackinac which is set back, uphill from the downtown area, we caught the 2:30 p.m. ferry back to St. Ignace. Just as it started to rain.

On Saturday morning, we chased down a decent place for a walk/run, rejecting our first two finds and driving a couple of hours west instead to Manistique Boardwalk in Manistique, Michigan. The paved path ran along the shore of Lake Michigan and US-2 (Top of the Lake Scenic Byway aka Lake Michigan Circle Tour). It was windy and so many swallows flew around among a group of blackbirds there, but never landed for a photo. Oh, well. I did catch a Common Yellowthroat and a Cedar Waxwing, each with a beak-ful!

I also passed a group of protesters across the road playing loud music to get attention and had to use my long lens to read their signs.

When Mark finished his run, he met a couple, Harry and Jolene, from Michigan, who recommended we stop at Lambeau Field in Green Bay, even if we weren’t Packers fans. So, we did. Huge pro-shop!

That night, we stayed in the parking lot of Kerrigan Brothers Winery in Kaukauna, Wisconsin, where we bought a superb bottle of Cabernet for my Dad. In the morning we set out for More Brewing in Villa Park, Illinois. We’ve stopped there before and were surprised to find the beginning of the Great Western Trail, which is right next to More Brewing, under some kind of construction. We walked/ran the trail anyway. Then, lunch at More Brewing and we were off to our reserved KOA site in Kanakee, Illinois.

Our destination the next day was Muncie, Indiana, to visit my cousin Jamie and her family. While checking the map for a good place to walk/run, I discovered an Artwalk in Rensselaer, Indiana. We had to see it. We picked up a Jasper County Mural Tour brochure at the welcome center in the quaint downtown area and walked around to view the more than fifty murals. The tour officially started in their Potawatomi Park.

So many beautiful, colorful expressions of creativity! Here are a few of our favorites…

After that, we found Fisher Oaks Savanna Nature Preserve in Walcott, Indiana, for a walk/run.

Apparently, the Indigo Bunting makes enough noise to be identified by the Merlin app on my phone, but it doesn’t like to show itself for the camera. This preserve was the first of three venues where I heard the Indigo Bunting, but never saw it. I’ve added it to my “elusive birds” list which previously only included the Red-eyed Vireo. At least there were some beautiful butterflies!

We had a great visit with Jamie, Andy, and Isabella. We missed Sam, who was away at camp. We parked in their driveway overnight, went out to dinner with them to Elm Street Brewing Company, and met several of their neighbors who enjoyed a guided tour inside our van.

In the morning, we headed east, toward home. Rain was in the forecast, so we stopped at Cardinal Greenway Rail Trail just after leaving their house. There, once again, I heard an Indigo Bunting, but never saw it.

After the Greenway, we aimed for Columbus, Ohio. The plan was to see The Odyssey movie and then visit Hoof Hearted Brewing for dinner, before heading to a KOA in Buckley Lake, Ohio, about a half hour outside of Columbus. The movie was fantastic! The brewery was closed. So, we tried out Knotty Pine Brewing instead. Apparently they’d had some technical difficulties recently and had only one of their own beers available. 😦

We never saw any rain in Columbus, but as we got closer to the KOA we could tell that it had rained hard there earlier. Soon after we parked at our campsite, I heard a hawk nearby. My phone app said Cooper’s Hawk. I was excited to find it in a nearby tree and after a brief photo session, I heard more hawks. Three of them approached the first one and they all flew off squawking together. What a sight!

Later on, as it was getting darker, I heard a Red-headed Woodpecker. When I finally found it, it didn’t have a red head. It was a juvenile. And it was certainly acting its age — making all kinds of peeping-cheeping noises and jumping from tree to tree to tree. I did manage to snap a few pictures of it.

That almost made up for missing the Indigo Bunting. Sort of.

At end the day, we finally encountered some rain. A downpour, in fact. Right after I finished folding clean, dry laundry in the laundry room while Mark took a shower in the KOA bathhouse. We ran back to the van together and were dripping wet by the time we got there. I managed to shield most of the dry laundry. Kind of.

Right down the street from the KOA, we’d seen a sign for Buckeye Lake State Park. A perfect spot for a walk/run the next morning. It was a beautiful day! And the Barn Swallows were a bonus!

We spent the morning there and then headed for a KOA campground in Emlenton, Pennsylvania. They were a new-ish KOA and it was quiet. The most activity we saw was when a Great Blue Heron took off from the little pond behind us as we opened the van door in the morning.

There was a chilly fog in the air that morning. As we drove to the main road, the fog formed a thick-walled tunnel around the road. We’d never seen fog do that before. It looked strange, but it didn’t last too long. About ninety minutes later, we stopped at the David S. Ammerman Trail in Clearfield, Pennsylvania. While Mark went for a run, I found a Northern Yellow Warbler and didn’t find the Indigo Bunting that I could clearly hear. Ah, well.

We got to our Harvest Hosts camping site, Jam Room Brewing Company, in Greentown, Pennsylvania, before dinner. They had a nice open area up a hill behind them where there was room for several campers to spread out. They were gracious hosts, but we didn’t like the food and beer options in their restaurant, so we ate in the van and relaxed for a while before bed.

In the morning, after visiting a nearby Walmart and having breakfast while parked in their lot, we continued to head toward home. But we made time to stop for a walk/run on the Heritage Trail near Goshen, New York. What an unexpected treasure trove of wildlife! As usual, I heard more types of birds than I actually saw. I managed to get photos of a few, including a Solitary Sandpiper (fuzzy, faraway pics), a Mute Swan family, and a Downy Woodpecker.

From there, we made our way to Albany, NY, and Fidens Brewing Company, where we enjoyed a late lunch. Marked ordered some cans to-go and we hit the road for home. About three hours later we pulled into our own driveway. Plenty of sunlight left for unloading the van before collapsing in our king-sized bed. Another adventure in the books.

Thought I’d Skip Gardening This Spring…

We’d been thinking and planning for a long time to make the trek west in our van—all the way to California and then north to Canada. And before we knew it, the time for thinking was over. We left home on a Monday, which seems to be our favorite day to launch ourselves into new adventures.

It felt strange to leave home during gardening season. The decision to skip vegetable gardening this spring/summer was not made easily. But I’m only one person with one “wild and precious life.” So before we left, I walked around the yard to view all the perennials in their various stages of splendor. The strawberries, blueberries, and raspberries were flowering. The apple trees were producing tiny bumps of would-be apples. The salvia, peonies, roses, azalea, chives, and butterfly bushes were flowering. The hydrangea, hibiscus, irises, daisies, balloon flowers, thistle, and black-eyed Susans were in their early stages. They’ll all look much different by the time we get back.

That first night, we camped at Letchworth State Park, nicknamed ‘Grand Canyon of the East’, in western New York. We checked out the Mt. Morris Dam before settling in at our campsite. The water at the dam was low. But according to a very knowledgeable and excited park employee, that’s normal.

We spent the following morning chasing waterfalls, rainbows, and birds along the Genesee River.

On the recommendation of a friend (thanks, Becky!), we stopped in the Glen Iris Inn to peek at the uniquely handsome staircase inside, before leaving the park. The Inn was an old farmhouse that William P. Letchworth had renovated as a country retreat. The bells hanging from the staircase were apparently brought back from Switzerland where Letchworth found that each had a unique tone to identify the cow wearing it.

Also that day, as on our last long road trip (October 2023), we learned of the death of another friend who’d been ill for a while. We’re sad to have to miss her funeral, but grateful for the visits we had with her recently.

That night we parked at the Gsellman Family Farm, a Harvest Hosts site in Ohio. Several full-sized goats, along with young (goat) kids, shared the space with us. When it started raining, they decided our van made a great shelter and we could hear them knocking around under us. Before we left in the morning, to make sure no goats were harmed in the process of exiting, Mark had to shoo them out with a broom.

After a pit stop at the local Walmart, we set our sights on more waterfalls, heading toward nearby Cuyahoga Valley National Park. Mark went for a run and I took a more leisurely (birding) pace along the Brandywine Falls trail.

After lunch, set our GPS for Beverly Shores, Indiana. The drive was a rainy one as we gained an hour, passing from Eastern to Central time. We arrived at the Dunewood Campground in Indiana Dunes National Park in time for supper.

In the morning, we left the campground and drove north about a mile to the shore of Lake Michigan. The water was choppy and the view expansive. You could have convinced me I was standing on an east coast beach looking out at the Atlantic Ocean.

Just down the street we pulled into the Great Marsh Trail parking lot. Mark went for a run along the Calumet Trail while I wandered down the Great Marsh Trail. Despite some noisy restoration work being done, the birds were active. I even spotted a few migrating Sandhill Cranes. [Disclaimer: I exchanged lenses on my two camera bodies before this trip. I’m still learning how to adjust the settings and the focus area on my D7500, so the bird photos are less than sharp.]

After lunch we left the shores of Lake Michigan and headed northwest toward Galena, Illinois. We’d reserved another Harvest Hosts site at yet another goat farm. At Hoof It Goat Treks we had a grassy spread by a dirt road all to ourselves (no goats) and fell asleep listening to a Barred Owl hooting in the woods behind us. The earliest goat hike was scheduled for 10am the next morning, so we opted out and headed to the local Walmart before 6:30am to use their facilities and have breakfast in their parking lot.

We spent the morning in downtown Galena. What a charming place! We passed by the home that was gifted to Ulysses S. Grant upon his triumphant return to Galena after the Civil War. The wide open Depot Park and River Trail, along with old brick homes lining Main Street gave it it’s charm. The list of birds we saw along the trail made me happy: Cliff Swallow, Red-winged Blackbird, Yellow Warbler, American Redstart, Rough-winged Swallow, (Baltimore?) Oriole, Starling, Killdeer. After a run/walk along the trail, we stopped at Otto’s for lunch. It came highly recommended and did not disappoint. Mark even ordered a couple of their homemade blueberry pop-tarts togo.

From Galena, we headed for Decorah, Iowa, home to Toppling Goliath, one of Mark’s favorite breweries. On the way, we found the Basilica of St. Francis Xavier in Dyersville. The interior was beautiful! And, totally unrelated, we learned that Dyersville is where Field of Dreams, the movie starring Kevin Costner, was filmed. We declined the opportunity to actually see the baseball field from the film, though.

That evening, we had dinner at Toppling Goliath where Mark enjoyed a flight of some of his favorites. We stayed overnight at Pulpit Rock Campground, as we did three years ago when we first drove home from Boulder, Colorado, with our brand new van. The campground was way more crowded this time, with families and large groups and kids on bikes everywhere! I guess that’s what happens when you book a site at a family-friendly place on Memorial Day weekend.

We had an appointment at Titan Vans in Boulder, Colorado, the following week, so we booked a couple of campground stays in Nebraska. Along the way we found Ada Hayden Heritage Park in Ames, Iowa. It had hiking, biking, and running trails around a large central double-llake. Mark went for a run while I walked around half of the double-lake, over a bridge in the middle. My most exciting bird find was a crowded Purple Martin nesting box.

We spent that night at the first of two campgrounds in Nebraska. Between the rain, the failed attempts to find a place near the highway for running/walking, another time zone change, and a slight malfunction of our gray-water outlet, Nebraska didn’t hold much for us.

Colorado was a different story. But a story for another time.